Cartagena de Indias
Despite being a large port city, Cartagena at its heart remains a 16th-century treasure. The old walled city - la ciudad amarullada - is made up of cobbled streets and pastel-colored walls, arcaded squares, and elegant promenades.
GENERAL INFO
Recommended stay: 2-3 nights
Currency: Colombian Peso (COP)
Tipping: Not necessary, most round up when paying taxis, vendors, nicer restaurants collect a 10% service charge
Transportation: taxis arranged by hotel or nice restaurant, uber during day
Weather: humid, highs in the high-80s and lows in the mid-70s
Attire: light, breezy clothing
Beach: we highly recommend not going to the beach along the city (they aren't very clean or safe), please refer to the SEE+DO section for the best beach spots!
STAY
Luxe: Casa San Agustin
Casa San Agustin is one of our favorite hotels in town - the beautifully designed rooms in the restored colonial mansion make it the perfect mix of modern and historic. It is on the pricier end, but worth it for ultra comfortable accommodations, a wonderful spa, and excellent on-site bar and restaurant.
Resort: Sofitel Santa Clara
In a converted 17th-century convent near the Caribbean Sea, Sofitel Santa Clara is an upscale resort-style hotel. Perfect for families, or those who feel more comfortable in larger properties with full resort amenities.
House Rental: Casa de la Renta
Located in the center of the old city ,Casa de la Renta is the ideal spot for larger groups or families. ,The house has six beautiful rooms, terraces, and a pool, and comes fully serviced.
Hip: Hotel LM
For a younger vibe, rooftop pool, and ideal location in the walled city, stay at Hotel LM. The rooms are designed with a mix of colonial and modern elements, with several featuring balconies that overlook the Cartagena's narrow streets.
SEE + DO
Cartagena's old city is easily seen in one day, so we highly recommend expanding your activities beyond the walls and into the surrounding neighborhoods and islands
SIGHTS
Ciudad Amarullada
A walk through the old city is the best way to see everything - be sure not to miss San Diego and Getsemaní. As you stroll through the narrow streets, peek into any churches or cathedrals that catch your eye (San Pedro Claver and Santa Catalina de Alejandría are our favorites).
Convento de la Popa
Located on the highest point in Cartagena, Convento de la Popa provides sweeping views of the city and coastline. The original church (attached to the convent) was built in 1607 by Augustine fathers and was later fortified.
Museums + Galleries
There are a few (very) small museums and galleries in the old city, including Museo de Oro, Palacio de la Inquisición (where the cocktail party is), Museo de Arte Moderno, and NH Galería.
Castillo San Felipe
Commissioned in 1630, Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas is one of the greatest colonia fortresses built by the Spaniards. Be sure to walk to the top and explore the system of tunnels on your way down.
DAY TRIPS
Islas del Rosario
Spend the day visiting the Islas del Rosario by boat from Cartagena. If you want a beach day - this is it. You can have a boat take you to/from a beach club for the day, or you can tour the islands with your captain and check out remote spots. Fishing is also an option! If you are interested in booking a boat, I’d be happy to set it up!
Aviary
Colombia has the widest variety of bird life in the world. Visit the National Aviary, an ambitious project developed to showcase more than 1,800 birds and more than 138 distinct species. Follow up your visit with lunch on the beach at El Pescador de Colores. If you are interested in booking transportation to/from (it is a ~40 minute drive), you can arrange through your hotel, or I can set up a private driver for you.
SHOPPING
Street Shopping
The best place to buy Wayuu mochilas, straw bags, sandals, and fun jewelry is on the streets. You'll find the largest selection along the side of the cathedral...
Homeware: Casa Chiqui
Casa Chiqui sells a variety of goods from Colombia and all around the world. You'll find endless pillows, decorative objects, jewelry, and textiles.
Concept: St. DOM
St. Dom is a concept store that stocks homeware, books, art, jewelery, and clothing by Colombian designers such as Amelia Toro, Malai and Johanna Ortiz.
Emeralds: Lucy
If you're interested in seeing (or buying) emeralds, visit Lucy Jewelry in the walled city. For a more educational experience, take a 10 min taxi outside the old city into Bocagrande to the Emerald Museum.
Guayabera: Ketty Tinoco
If you're interested in buying a guayabera - a linen men's summer/cigar-smoking shirt - Ketty Tinoco is the place to go.
Accessories: Mercedes Salazar
Shop for fun, statement earrings at Colombian designer Mercedes Salazar's store.
Designer: Silvia Tcherassi
Visit Silvia Tcherassi's boutique - right across from the Charleston Santa Teresa. Tcherassi is a celebrated Colombian designer. whose collections are presented at Paris + Milan fashion weeks.
EAT + DRINK
Cartagena's cuisine is a mix of traditional Colombian and Caribbean flavors. We recommend the following in Cartagena:
Pan de bono: a breakfast staple, bread made of corn flour, cassava starch, cheese, eggs, often paired with a guava jam known as bocadillo
Jugo de lulo/Luladas: juice made from a delicious green fruit, similar to kiwi, known as lulo
Arepa de huevo: an arepa stuffed with ground beef, eggs, fried to cook
Ropa vieja: a popular Caribbean dish, consisting of shredded or pulled stewed beef with vegetables, beans, and rice
Costeñitas: a tasty Caribbean beer that comes in a very small glass bottle (you can only get these in the islands)
To-Go: La Esquina del Pan de Bono
Be sure to try a juice (Lulo is the best) and their famous pan de bono, a traditional Colombian bread made of yucca flour, corn flour, and cheese.
Casual Lunch: Malanga
A great lunch (and breakfast/early dinner) spot that serves non-fussy local food and equally delicious cocktails.
Ceviche: El Boliche, Cevicheria
Both of these walk-in, casual eateries serve some of the best ceviche in town. If you're a large party, arrive early to avoid a wait :)
Sunset: Baluarte San Francisco Javier
A topnotch afternoon coffee here comes with views of the Caribbean sea and the lovely Santa Teresa square below. Make sure you stick around for a while to watch the sunset. Cafe del Mar is also a great option nearby, but is much more touristy.
Al Fresco: Club de Pesca
A 10-minute taxi outside the walled city, Club de Pesca is a wonderful choice for traditional Colombian food, a formal setting, and a good breeze.
Traditional: La Vitrola
La Vitrola has long been Cartagena's best dinner spot - the formal restaurant serves a great surf n' turf menu, excellent mojitos, and a live Cuban band. Note: reservations are essential, all men are required to wear pants, and no young children (<15) are permitted.
Casual Dinner: La Malagana
This stylish little rooftop terrace serves (relatively) light bistro-style fare and has a great cocktail menu.
Salsa: Cafe Havana
A must-visit, Cafe Havana is an old-school Salsa club in a nostalgic setting. If you're more of a people-watcher than a dancer, we highly recommend you arrive before 11:30 for a table. As the night progresses, the space fills up and few people aren't dancing. If the place is too packed, go to Bazurto Social Club around the corner.
Cocktails + Dancing: La Jugada
La Jugada - one of our favorite spots - is great for a night out but not a full-on club scene. Enjoy cocktails on the rooftop terrace, and salsa dancing under the giant disco balls downstairs. For a clubbier scene, La Movida is your best bet (same owners as La Jugada). Note: cocktail attire is encouraged.