SOUTHEASTERN SICILY
AUG 30 - SEP 3
GETTING AROUND
car rental
Drive from Taormina to Noto!
aIR TRAVEL - CATANIA TO NAPLES
Volotea V7 1834 on 9/3 at 1:25PM
STAY
Dimora delle Balze
EAT + DRINK / SEE + DO
IN & AROUND Noto
on the drive down: seaside lunch at TRATTORIA IL RIZZARI*
If you’re looking for a fantastic seafood lunch, I Rizzari is the answer. The dark interior of this tiny family-run bar and trattoria opens onto a beautiful, sun-dappled deck by the sea. Try the sweet local shrimp, mixed seafood pasta with fresh tomatoes, and grilled octopus served on a wooden board.
town: NOTO
Start your day with a visit to the Duomo, and a walk along Corso Vittorio Emmanuele - you’ll get the best glimpse of the town’s architectural gems. Note that the region experienced a devastating earthquake back in 1693 - so most everything you see is the result of baroque town planning.
pastry: CAFFE SICILIA
When in Noto, a visit to the outwardly unassuming 124-year-old Caffè Sicilia is a must. The fourth-generation co-owners serve up many things, among the best is the almond-milk granita and cappuccino ghiacciato (iced coffee with almond milk granita). When it comes to the pastries, ask for a recommendation, as new creations are served every day :)
country lunch: IL BAGLIETTO
For a beautiful lunch in the countryside, Il Blagietto is the move. This lovely restaurant is open-air, with tables set under a canopy of olive trees (though picnic blankets / eating on the ground is totally kosher).
local lakes: LAGHETTI di CAVAGRANDE
Discover Laghetti di Cavagrande. Cavagrande lakes are in Avola, which is very close to Noto. This is the perfect place for travellers who love enjoying nature and the great outdoors. There are limestone cliffs above the valley floor and suggestive small lakes you can access along the path down into the gorge.
dinner: IL CROCIFISSO or MANNA NOTO*
CROCIFISSO: Up the hill from Noto’s main street is a low-key building occupied by the handsome Ristorante Crocifisso, whose chef, Marco Baglieri, serves up inventive dishes using the freshest local ingredients. Locals and visitors alike rave about the outstanding wine list, cheesy eggplant, and sea urchin pasta.
MANNA NOTO: Housed in a former wine cellar, Manna Noto is one of the more chic restaurants in town. The whymsical, stylish decor is matched by an equally cool menu. Be sure to ask for a wine recommendation - the wine list is known to have unique and unexpected choices.
beach: VENDICARI
Situated on the southern-most part of Sicily’s east coast, Vendicari is a mixture of lagoons (pantano), sand dunes, rocky coastlines, and sandy beaches. Also within the reserve are a series of buildings, including a 15th Century tower built by Peter of Aragon (known as the Torre Sveva), a tonnara (tuna fishery) and several old fishermen’s houses. My recommendation: Calamosci, which requires a 30 min walk from your parking spot. Be sure to bring a towel, blanket, hat, and picnic lunch!
RAGUSA IBLA + modica + VITTORIA
old town: RAGUSA IBLA
An hour northwest of Noto, the town of Ragusa was also decimated by the earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt in the Baroque style. Don’t miss the Donnafugata Castle and the Piazza Duomo, an open, palm tree–filled reprieve from the town’s narrow alleys. Note: wear walking shoes - the walk to the top of town might make you break a sweat!
ragusa/light bite: I BANCHI
Michelin-star chef Ciccio Sultano is behind this contemporary, smart-casual eatery, which includes a dedicated bakery and deli counter. You can grab a quick bite, or take part in a lengthy tasting of just-baked pastries, panini, wine, and cheese.
ragusa/fine dining: CICCIO SULTANO DUOMO*
In an old restored building with a modern interior in an open space setting, the famous chef Ciccio Sultano has opened a ‘basilica of taste’ where he offers a large range of bread varieties, appetizers, main dishes and homemade desserts.
old town: MODICA
Just 25 minutes south of Ragusa, Modica is another beautiful example of Sicilian Baroque architecture, but the layers of Greek, Roman, Arab, and Norman civilization are more evident here. Modica is also the capital of high-end chocolate production, which dates to the 1500s.
winery: COS WINERY*
After a morning visit to to Ragusa or Modica, drive over to COS winery in Vittoria. Here you may meet Giusto Occhipinti, one of the 3 founders, and certainly one of the most important, influential, producers in all of Sicily. In order to protect the region’s precious soil, COS (along with most other products) work organically and biodynamically. More interestingly, COS uses 440-liter clay amphorae instead of casks. This calls for an interesting tour, and an even better educational tasting experience!
winery: OCCHIPINTI*
When in Vittoria, Agricola Occhipinti (run by niece of Giusto Occhipinti of COS) is is worth a visit. From her uncle, Arianna learned the proper way of laboring the vineyards and winemaking. Arianna manages the entire operation, using the “sovescio” technique (green manure), and leaves the wild Mediterranean vegetation, with the aim to preserve the biodiversity and have a natural oxygenation of the soil.
SYRACUSE
ISOLA di ORTYGIA
The historical center of Syracuse is located on the island of Ortygia, connected to mainland via two bridges. Visitors will appreciate the baroque architecture as well as the city’s 13th century Castello Maniace. Other popular stops include the Graziella, Bottari, Mastruarua, Spirduta, Maestranza and Turba districts, as well as the Piazza del Duomo and the Fontana Aretusa.
ORTYGIA MARKET
While exploring the island, be sure to stop by the lively Ortigia Market on Via de Benedictis, which sells the freshest local products. Be sure to try a Sicilian specialty, such as snails or pistachios, and chat to the colorful vendors, who are happy to take you through their wares.
sandwiches: CASEIFICIO BORDERI
No visit to Syracuse's market is complete without a stop at this colourful deli near Ortygia's far northern tip. Veteran sandwich-master Andrea Borderi stands out front with a table full of cheeses, olives, greens, herbs, tomatoes and other fixings and banters with customers while creating free-form sandwiches big enough to keep you full all day.
il DUOMO
The Duomo is considered the most important church in Syracuse and is under the protected of UNESCO. Its origins lie in the worship of the goddess Minerva, but its most striking feature has to be the combination of beautiful baroque and rococo architecture. The edifice was constructed in 1753 and is a magnificent sight, best admired from one of the cute cafés in the piazza!
This is where the cognoscenti (including Dolce & Gabbana) head for beautiful ceramics from Caltagirone, a central Sicilian town famed for its ceramic production. Fusing classical motifs and bold, contemporary style, its stock includes iconic teste di Moro (Moor heads) and conversation-piece vases and bowls in rich, intense colors.
FONTANA ARETUSA
Down the winding main street from the cathedral is this ancient spring, where fresh water still bubbles up just as it did in ancient times (when it was the city's main water supply). Legend has it that the goddess Artemis transformed her beautiful handmaiden Aretusa into the spring to protect her from the unwelcome attention of the river god Alpheus.
CASTELLO MANIACE
Guarding the island's southern tip, Ortygia's 13th-century castle is a lovely place to wander through.. The castle grounds house two exhibitions, one shedding light on the fortress' evolution through the centuries, the other displaying archaeological objects from the site, including Norman-era ceramics and ceramic hand grenades from the 16th century.
elegant dinner: DON CAMILLO*
One of Ortygia's more elegant restaurants, Don Camillo specializes in great service and innovative Sicilian cuisine. If you stay through the evening, dinner here is a great choice.